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Lot #2883

Heuer Abercrombie & Fitch Co. Seafarer 2443 First Execution

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Introduction

While famed as a general clothing store these days, Abercrombie & Fitch was once one of the most influential and important sporting goods supplier in all of America. With their mid-town Manhattan location seeing significant business in the 1950s thanks to the post-war boom in sporting activities, their clout with suppliers began to grow as their customer base began to ask for more and more specialised equipment. With interest growing for a watch that could track the tides, the president of Abercrombie & Fitch turned to Charles-Eduoard Heuer. The timepiece that came about as result from that inquiry, was the Solunar, “the only watch in the world that tells both SOLAR (sun) time, and LUNAR (moon) time”— as stated by the 1949 ad that accompanied its launch. However, a niche product with a limited run of just 1,000 pieces, the Solunar was promptly discontinued. However, the Solunar would live on in the watch that would follow, the Seafarer, the watch that we have here. Combining the tidal dial with a chronograph, the Seafarer was the ultimate yachting watch. To operate it, first you set the time (or, “Solar Time” as Heuer calls it) and then the “Lunar Dial” according to tide tables using the pusher at 9 o’clock until the tide markers aligned with the proper time. At midnight, the tide dial would advance. Launched in the 1950s and produced until the 1970s, the Seafarer went through several editions, but the example we have here belongs to the First Execution, with its aged silver dial only sporting Arabic numerals across the top of the dial at 11, 12 and 1 o’clock. “Oversized” at the time with its 38mm stainless steel case, the Seafarer was a beast back in the 1950s, with it dwarfing the 32-34mm watches men would normally wear, making it a perfectly contemporary choice for the modern collector.

Loupe This Scorecard

Grade

V 8

Status

Vetted & Approved

Included

Watch Only

Est. value range

$10,000 – $20,000

The Details

Brand

Abercrombie & Fitch Co.

Dimensions

38mm

Model

Seafarer 'First Execution'

Movement

Valjoux cal. 72

Reference

2443

Bracelet

Leather strap

Year

Circa 1950s

Condition

Very Good

Material

Stainless steel

Included

Watch only

Dial Color

Silver

THE DIAL
THE DIAL

Identifiable as one of the earlier examples, this ref. 2443 falls under the "First Execution" category as a result of its dial which only features Arabic numerals at 11, 12 and 1 o'clock, with the rest of the hours featuring luminous dots.

THE CONSTRUCTION
THE CONSTRUCTION

Offered as a large chonograph at the time, the ref. 2443's 38mm stainless steel case has aged to translate perfectly into the demands of modern watch collectors.

TIMING MACHINE READOUT
TIMING MACHINE READOUT

This reading was taken (crown down) with a ONEOF Accuracy Boutique Edition timing machine at time of cataloging. It is provided as a courtesy only, and shall not be construed as a warranty or guarantee of any kind. Please refer to our terms and conditions of sale for more information.

Condition

Watch is in very good vintage condition. Case shows moderate signs of wear. Lugs have sharp chamfered edges, with some small marks and dings visible along the edges. Solunar / Tidal pusher on the 9 o'clock side of the case is brassing as seen in the images. Caseback shows some surface marks and scratches like the case. Original dial in very good condition. There is some wear along the surface, with discolored luminous dots. The hour and minute central hands have been replaced at some point with similar looking but not original style ones. Watch comes on a generic strap and buckle.

Our Perspective

An icon of the 1950s and 1960s, the Seafarer has grown a cult following so large that it has become a mainstream delight thanks to its colorful display and unique history.

Eric Ku

Co-founder